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A highly regarded garage operation, Ferrand-Lartigue's 1998 exhibits a dark ruby/purple color as well as a tight but promising, internationally-styled bouquet of new oak, black fruits, and saddle leather. The wine is medium to full-bodied, with excellent purity, and clean, rich, concentrated flavors. Critics might argue that it is too international, but it is an outstanding effort. Anticipated maturity: now-2015. 90 points |